How to Choose a Hair Stick Based on Hair Length

One of the most frequently asked questions I’ve heard at markets is if they can still wear a hair stick with shorter or lighter hair. Well, the answer is Yes!

Ancient Chinese people never cut their hair, because every part of their body is considered a divine gift from their parents (身体发肤受之父母), and damaging it would be an unforgivable sin. Therefore, when we talk about hair sticks or even Japanese kanzashi, our first impression is almost always that of an elegant Asian woman with long hair carefully crafted into intricate updos.

However, like every other aspect of traditional Chinese culture, hairpins have also been modernized to meet contemporary needs and aesthetics. This guide will introduce you to the basic categorization of hair sticks, their modernized counterparts, and most importantly, how to choose a hair stick or hair pin based on the length of your hair.

The 3 Main Types of Chinese Hair Accessories

Traditionally, there are only three main types of Chinese hair accessories:

• Zan (簪): the single hair stick, made with wood, metal, or ivory. Can be straight or curved.

• Chai (钗): the split-end hair stick, often in a U shape.

• Dian (钿): Small comb-tooth hair accessories that can be inserted after the hairdo is complete

Single Sticks (Zan)

A wood Zan is a unique gift given to young girls as a rite of passage at age 13, indicating their transition to womanhood. Unfortunately, this means they’ve become fertile (as menstruation starts) and thus ready to be married off. But it also symbolizes the parents’ genuine hopes for their daughters to live a happy, abundant life.

Single hair sticks come in different sizes and materials. Generally, the longer and thicker the stick, the more hair it can hold. A wooden hair stick is usually sufficient to hold all of one’s hair, granting simplicity and elegance in one piece. Thinner, metal sticks tend to be shorter, and work better with shoulder-length hair. Combined with additional hair pins, they are also used for more complicated styling for longer hair.

U-Shaped Sticks (Chai)

U-shaped hair sticks are some of the most common styles you’ll see in the modern age. You may find straight U-shaped sticks, Omega-shaped sticks, and ones with a wavy center for a stronger hold. U-shaped sticks can be used similarly to single sticks or inserted after your hair is put up. Regular U-shaped sticks range between 4” and 5” on average. They work with shoulder-length and longer hair. Smaller U-shaped pins usually vary between 2” to 3”. Though the shorter length may limit design complexity, they would work great for those with shorter hair.

Combtooth (Dian)

Comb-tooth hair pins also come in different sizes. Unlike hair sticks, combtooths can be inserted after the hair styling is complete, giving them more flexibility than hair sticks. Combtooth comes in full-size combs (2” combs) and half-combs (1” combs). Therefore, you can use combtooth designs with various hair lengths, volumes, and textures.

How to Choose a Hairpin Based on Hair Length

There are a few things to take into consideration when choosing a hairpin:

• Shape of pin: Some pins, like the straight stick, require a certain length or volume of hair to work properly

• Length: Longer pins work with longer hair, and vice versa. Pretty straightforward!

• Weight: Hold the hairpin and feel its weight. Heavier weight means more hair is needed to stabilize the pin.

• Design: Tasseled pins (bu yao) tend to demand more counterbalance, meaning longer or thicker hair.

I’ve made a summary below to break things down a little further:

Best Hair Sticks for Long Hair

If your hair goes below the middle of your back, or is at waist-length, go with long, thick sticks. Wooden hair sticks would be your best choice, followed by longer U-shaped hair sticks. Don’t be surprised: a thin single stick may not work as well as you’d think because they may actually not be strong enough to hold all your hair up.

Longer hair can also easily hold up full-length combtooth designs: go wild with it!

Best Hair Sticks for Medium Length Hair

By medium, I mean shoulder or chest length. Thin, metal single sticks and standard U-shaped hair sticks would work great with medium-length hair. Half combtooth can also be inserted at the end of your bun or ponytail. Depending on your hair style, tasseled bobby-pins are a handy substitution for traditional single sticks if your hair texture is more on the light and airy side.

Best Hair Sticks for Short Hair

YES! You can still wear these beautiful Chinese hair sticks even if your hair is short. Most of your choices would be using modernized designs, like bridal U pins and bobby pins. The half-sized comb-tooth would also stay in your hair easily. Linked hair pins are another great option since they are designed to go around your hair horizontally, similar to a headband. They are the least affected by hair length.

However, I would personally avoid tasseled designs if you have short hair. The weight of the tassels and the pull from the movement could make the hair pin come loose.